Fruit

It’s a surprise if you’ve never heard of the pawpaw fruit before. You won’t see pawpaws in grocery stores because they’re hard to keep and transport.

However, the pawpaw is making a comeback for foodies, health nuts, and Earth lovers alike.

Read on to find out about pawpaws and see how you can get your hands on this great, truly American, power fruit.

What Is a Pawpaw Fruit?

Pawpaws, or Asimina triloba, is the largest native fruit in America. The pawpaw is a temperate fruit that grows along North America.

A pawpaw looks like the child of a mango and a banana. You could even mistake it for a papaya because of its size.

In fact, the pawpaw may have gotten its name from the Spanish word for papaya because of its size and color.

It’s easier to tell the difference between pawpaws and other fruits by opening one up. Inside, you’ll find fruit flesh with a soft custard-like texture and long, almond-shaped seeds.

What Does Pawpaw Taste Like?

Most people will tell you that pawpaws taste like a mix of mangoes and bananas, but it’s much more complex than that.

The Texture

The pawpaw fruit is part of the custard apple family, so it tastes like cherimoya from Peru or a soursop (guanábana) from Mexico. Those might be familiar tastes to you.

But if you’ve never had those tropical fruits yet, imagine this: it greets your tongue with a custardy-smooth texture, creamy and delightful.

In some varieties, the texture is reminiscent of avocadoes or an overripe banana. In others, the flesh is a bit firmer, a cross between a mango and a banana.

The Taste

One lick of the flesh and you’re hit with a delightful mixture one can only describe as tropical.

Pawpaws taste like a medley of mango sweetness and banana richness, with a zing of citrus, culminating in a subtle, bitter aftertaste.

But it’s a good bitter, like the kind in aged wine or a good beer, and more subtle, almost floral-like.

It’s hard to describe the journey your taste buds will take with a ripe pawpaw. We recommend you try it yourself.

Where Did Pawpaw Trees Come From?

Closer Than You Think.

Europeans introduced plenty of fruits to America. Like apples and cherries, some of these fruits are so common that we think they’ve always been here. But here’s a fun fact for you: the Europeans imported these fruits when they sailed to America.

Here’s another fun fact: the unfamiliar pawpaw is native to North America. It grows best in the temperate climates of Eastern and Midwestern United States.

They’re most commonly found in Eastern America, from the Great Lakes region to New York, then to the Midwest, and going south until Florida. If you’re in Canada, you can find pawpaws in Ontario.

An Estranged Family

It’s a mystery how this member of the custard apple family found its way so far up North. Some scholars say that the pawpaw emerged in eastern America when the planet was much warmer and adapted to colder climates ever since.

The pawpaw fruit has a pretty long history. Native Americans regularly ate this fruit, and early settlers gave pawpaws a shot and loved it.

Even the Founding Fathers enjoyed pawpaw fruits. George Washington had pawpaws for dessert. Thomas Jefferson planted them in Monticello. How’s that for history?

How America Forgot The Pawpaw

Even if the pawpaw is a native fruit, it’s not very popular. The difficulty of transporting pawpaws and its short shelf life explains why pawpaws are hard to take off commercially.

The pawpaw tree is actually quite easy to cultivate, but the fruit has a pretty short shelf life. At room temperature, pawpaw fruit only lasts 2 to 3 days, or about 3 weeks when refrigerated.

So this explains why the pawpaw didn’t gain the massive popularity that it should. Researchers at Kentucky State University are soon trying to change that.

Making The Pawpaw Great Again

Available In Grocery Chains? Soon Enough.

Researchers from Kentucky State University are trying to make pawpaws commercially available. Their goal is to find the best pawpaw cultivars and identify the best management techniques.

The Kentucky State University program listed criteria for the fresh fruit, like flesh color, fruit size, seed size, fruit shape, and flesh taste. If a pawpaw variety does well, then the KSU will include them in its breeding program.

While the program has shown promise so far, it’s hard to tell when you could get the prized pawpaw in the big-chain grocery store.

It’s still not commercially grown because while researchers are breeding for consistency, it’s still hard to control its shelf life.

In short, the pawpaw is a supply chain nightmare. So where can you find pawpaw fruits?

Where to Find Pawpaw Fruits

In Farmer’s Markets

Because of the pawpaw’s sensitivities and shelf life, your best bet is to get them locally through farmer’s markets.

The bigger question is when to get your hands on the pawpaw. Because pawpaws are so sensitive, it takes only two to three days from picking before it turns to mush.

If you’re lucky, your farmer’s market or local grocery stores could have pawpaws available for two to three weeks. It depends on how many pawpaws your local farmers grew and harvested.

The pawpaw harvest season is usually at around September, right at the beginning of fall.

Your local newspaper might make announcements about pawpaw season. Some places even have annual events, like the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, so we suggest you watch out for those.

Foraging For Pawpaw

If you grow near a mountainous area in the Midwest where pawpaws are abundant, you’re in luck! You could forage for wild pawpaws when fall hits.

If you forage for pawpaw fruits, we suggest you check out forests with a lighter shade, as that’s the ideal environment for pawpaw trees to grow.

Grow Your Own Pawpaw

If you want a steady supply of pawpaw, we suggest you try to grow and cultivate your own. You might learn a thing or two along the way.

From Seeds

While you can try growing and germinating your own trees from pawpaw seeds, we don’t recommend this method. It takes too long for the seeds to germinate and could be erratic.

However, if you want to give it a shot, the Iowa State University suggests you could try placing the seeds in a cool, moist environment of sand and peat moss for 80-100 days. Afterward, you could plant the seeds in a pot.

From Saplings

Instead, we suggest you choose saplings from your local nursery. This way, you could choose how to propagate these trees. There are four cultivars of pawpaw available in the United States.

For best results, we recommend getting two different varieties of pawpaw. Pawpaw trees are self-incompatible. This means that cross-pollination from another unrelated pawpaw tree will give you better results.

Remember the KSU pawpaw breeding program? KSU came up with some varieties to suit your needs.

If you want a tree with heavy crops, then you might want to get the KSU-Atwood variety. If you want an early ripening variety, then the KSU-Benson might be for you.

How Do You Eat Pawpaw Fruit

Now that you’ve figured out how to get your hands on a pawpaw, you might wonder: what’s the best way to eat them?

There are lots of ways to eat pawpaw, and because the pawpaw is getting really popular among foodies, there are more ways to enjoy them than ever before.

Eaten Raw

The pawpaw fruit is usually eaten raw. Just open one up and scoop the delicious flesh out. Watch out for the seeds and the skins! They’re not edible, and they don’t taste as delicious.

If you want a fruit dessert that tastes a lot like ice cream, just chill your pawpaw before serving. This was how George Washington liked to eat pawpaw.

It really is best to let the pawpaw ripen on a tree, but if you picked your fruits early, make sure you wait until it ripens under room temperature first. Otherwise, just toss pawpaw in the fridge, and you’ll be good to go.

Cooking With Pawpaw

Pawpaw has a custard-like texture, so it’s hard to use the flesh as a garnish. It also oxidizes quickly, like a banana does, so it’s best that you use pureed pawpaw flesh the same day you’ve extracted them.

The easiest way to use pawpaw pulp is as a syrup in frozen desserts like frozen yogurt or in pudding recipes.

If you have a banana smoothie, banana ice cream, or banana pudding recipes lying around, you’re in luck: pawpaw behaves a lot like banana as a puree.

Besides frozen desserts, you could also try using pawpaw in your bread and cake recipes. Pawpaw fruit lends itself well to the slow heat of baking and ingredients like dairy and flour.

Conclusion

The pawpaw fruit is a North American wonder fruit still hidden in mystery. It’s making a comeback, though, so don’t miss out! Get your hands on this sweet delight.

Nothing screams “millennial” more than avocados. Millennials hyped this fruit up because of its exotic nature, but let’s not deny that avocados are delicious for people of all ages. And you could use them as a face mask, too.

If you’ve ever thought of planting an avocado tree, read below for our tips and tricks!

The Basics

Origins of the Avocado

Avocados (Persea Americana) are tropical fruits native to Mexico. Discovered over 10,000 years ago and domesticated 5,000 years ago by the Aztecs, the avocado was brought to the United States in 1833 by a horticulturist who planted trees in Florida.

However, the fruit’s popularity really took off in the 20th century, where more people started recognizing its value as a cash crop.

Should I Plant An Avocado Tree?

Avocados are expensive, but the DIY route won’t save you some pennies either. Avocado planting is an expensive investment of time, labor, and money.

So if your goal is to save money, then you probably shouldn’t plant avocado trees.

If you want to take on a cool life project, maybe planting an avocado tree would work for you.

The Ideal Environment For Avocado Growth

Before you get your feet wet trying to produce fruit from your tree, make sure you know what it takes. That way, you won’t get disappointed when things go south.

Climate

Avocado is a tropical fruit, so it grows best in warm climates with plenty of sun. If you’re in the United States, it’s best if you live in USDA Zones 9 through 11.

This means you have better chances of growing avocados if you live in Florida, California, Hawaii, or Texas.

Cold weather is dangerous to avocado trees, so you’re out of luck if you live in a colder region.

Avocado Varieties

The three common varieties of avocado fruit in the united states are the West Indian (Persea americana var. americana), Mexican (Persea americana var. drymifolia), and Guatemalan (Persea americana var. guatemalensis) varieties.

Knowing the avocado tree variety is important for growing these trees. Different varieties thrive under different conditions, though they share some things in common.

The West Indian variety is the most sensitive to frost, and the Mexican variety can be more forgiving with colder temperatures.

Soil and Water

Avocado trees don’t do very well in wet soil but thrive in moist soil. They aren’t sensitive to the soil pH level, but they do best in soil with a pH of 6 to 6.5.

Be careful of salinity. Avocado trees won’t thrive in salty soil. You should also keep your water’s salinity in check.

When to Plant an Avocado Tree

There’s actually an ideal time to plant your avocado tree: early spring. In spring, you’re sure that the soil is warm enough and free of frost and you get to avoid harsh, direct sunlight at the same time.

The same rule applies whether you’re transplanting a potted avocado tree, or you’re planting avocado saplings in your backyard.

How to Grow an Avocado Tree From Seeds

A Fair Warning

If you start from the pit, you won’t see your trees bear fruit until you’ve changed careers, had children, or moved to another city.

That’s because you’ll be waiting years for your seed-grown avocado to bear fruit. Maybe a decade or more.

For graft-grown saplings, it only takes 4 years until your tree starts bearing fruit. On the other hand, it takes around 10-15 years for an avocado tree to be mature enough to bear fruit—if you’re lucky.

Avocados aren’t true-to-seed. This makes it that much harder for your plants to pollinate and bear fruit. This is why commercial avocado trees are graft-grown, engineered so that it grows more fruit.

You could always try to plant a tree to experiment and have fun, though. And if things don’t go well for you, at least you’ll have a houseplant.

If you’re really after growing a fruit-bearing avocado tree, skip to the growing avocados from the saplings portion below.

Method 1: The Water-Sprouting Method

This method of planting and growing avocado trees is the most common method you’ll see. It’s also pretty easy to do yourself at home.

What You’ll Need

• Prepared Avocado Seed
• Toothpicks
• A jar, drinking glass, or another container
• Water
• Potting soil
• 10-inch pot with drainage holes

Step 1: Prepare Seed for Planting

To prepare an avocado seed for planting, wash the seeds in water. Then figure out which side of your avocado is the “top” and the “bottom.” The top side of the seed is usually the pointier side, and the broader side is the bottom.

Poke around four toothpicks on each side of the seed, about halfway through the pit. The avocado pit is firm, but you can poke holes into it with a toothpick just fine.

Fill a glass with water. Then take your avocado pit and suspend it, broad end down, over the glass of water, taking care to align the toothpick with the walls of your glass or container.

Make sure the water covers the bottom third of the seed.

Step 2: Wait for Sprouts to Grow

Make sure you keep your glass with the avocado in a spot that’s warm, but not directly hitting sunlight.

Check the water to see if it covers the bottom third of the pit every day and change the water regularly.

You’ll go through this process for about 2 to 8 weeks, or until sprouts and roots start to grow from the seed.

Measure the stem as it grows. When your stem measures 7 inches, cut it down to about 3 inches to encourage root growth.

Step 3: Potting the Avocado Sprout

You’ll know it’s time to transfer the avocado pit to the pot when you see new top leaves growing from the pit.

Make sure you choose a pot that is at least 6 inches in diameter. It’s also important to get a pot with drainage holes because avocado trees need well-drained soil to thrive.

When choosing soil, make sure you get a sandier variety that has less salt. Insert the seed in the soil, covering the entire pit. Leave only the stem above the soil.

From here, you’ll only have to remember to water your plant regularly. Transfer your potted plant to ground soil once it reaches around 2 years old.

Method 2: The Soil-Sprouting Method

Though the water-sprouting method is the most popular, some gardeners prefer the soil-sprouting method. It could be easier and faster than the water sprouting method when done right.

The process is more or less the same as the water-sprouting method, except that you won’t be sprouting your avocado seed over water. Instead, you’ll wait for your avocado to sprout in your pot.

What You’ll Need

• Prepared Avocado Seed
• 10-inch pot with drainage holes
• Potting soil

Step 1: Prepare Seed for Planting

Make sure you clean the avocado pit and rinse all the fruit flesh out. Try to peel or at least score the brown outer skin on the seed. That’s all the preparation you’ll need to do for the seed.

Step 2: Prepare Soil

The rules for choosing soil are the same here as it was in the water-sprouting method. We recommend soil that’s sandier and not too salty. Your soil should ideally have a pH of around 6 to 6.5.

Step 3: Plant Seed in Pot

Make sure you don’t bury the whole seed inside the soil. You’ll want to expose the upper half of the seed to air and bury the bottom half inside the soil.

Just like with water-sprouted pits, make sure you water your avocado enough without flooding. And always expose the pot to warm areas with indirect sunlight.

How to Grow an Avocado Tree From Saplings

Choosing a sapling from your local nursery is the best way to ensure that you get an avocado tree that can bear fruit for you. These days, you can even get saplings from Amazon!

Unlike seed-grown avocado trees, there is a higher chance that you’ll grow fruits with grafted avocado plants. It will only take 3-4 years, which is much shorter than the decade you’ll need for seed-grown avocado trees.

Step 1: Purchasing Your Sapling

Whether you purchase your sapling in your local nursery or from Amazon, make sure you get one that’s grafted. Some nurseries or sellers will tell you if the seedling was “grafted for earliest fruit” or “grafted for heavier fruit crops.”

There are plenty of options, so decide what you want from your avocado tree before you get your sapling.

If you want more yield from your trees, don’t just choose one sapling. Try going for two! Cross-pollination will help increase your fruit yield per year.

If you get two trees, make sure you get one “A” variety avocado and one “B” variety avocado.

The reason for matching an “A” variety with a “B” variety is to time the plants for cross-pollination. You’ll want the male parts of a Type A tree to open at the same time as the female parts of a Type B avocado tree.

The common “Hass” variety is one example of a Type A avocado tree. You could match this with the Type B “Bacon” avocado tree. Both grow in USDA Zones 9b and 10a. These two varieties are a perfect match for both pollination and climate.

If you live in a different region though, you can try to find a list of common varieties for each flowering type here.

If you live in an avocado-growing neighborhood, then you don’t have to worry about buying two saplings. One avocado tree in your backyard should be good enough.

Step 2: Choosing A Planting Site

After you get your hands on some avocado saplings, choose a suitable planting site for your avocado tree to grow.

There are two important things to consider when you choose a site for planting your avocado tree: soil and climate.

When picking a plot in your backyard, make sure that the soil drains well there. Remember: avocado trees hate flooded soil!

Also, make sure to plant in an area with adequate exposure to sunlight.

Step 3: Transplanting The Sapling

Irrigate your plot with water before transplanting the seedling. Water your seedling as well. But always be careful to avoid flooding your plot and the seedling with too much water.

Dig a hole that’s 3 times as wide and 3 times as deep as your tree.

After digging, gently lift your sapling from its container, taking care not to pull too hard. After you’ve placed your tree on the hole, backfill that hole with native soil. Tamp the soil near the tree’s roots to remove air pockets.

Remember: you shouldn’t add fertilizer at this stage. It’s important for your tree to adapt to local conditions such as the climate and native soil.

And there you have it: your backyard fruit-bearing avocado tree, ready to give you some delicious avocados.

Avocado TLC: How to Give Your Avocado Tree the Care It Needs

Fertilizer

Only start fertilizing your tree when it has already adapted to native soil, and try to time it when frost might come. The fertilizer will prepare your tree for cold winters, so it’s best to do it before then.

Try to feed your tree with fertilizer 6 times a year when your tree is 1-3 years old. In its fourth year, reduce your feeding to four times per year.

Avocado trees need nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc to thrive. Any fertilizer that works for a citrus tree will work with avocado trees.

Nitrogen is probably the most important nutrient for avocado trees, so make sure you feed your tree with at least 1 pound of nitrogen per year.

You could spread out your fertilizer applications, but be careful of the weight.

Pruning and Staking

Pruning is important to make harvesting avocados more convenient for you.

Make sure you prune every after harvest during the autumn and winter months. Any earlier or later and you risk the avocado getting sunburnt on the parts you’ve cut out and pruned.

Watering

We recommend you water your avocado once a week to make sure that your tree gets the hydration it needs without flooding it. You should water more regularly when there’s a drought or limited rainfall in your area.

When in doubt about whether you should water, just check the condition of your soil around a couple of inches (2 to 3 inches) or so deep. If it’s dry, then you should water your tree.

Conclusion

Growing avocado trees bearing fruit is tough. Besides the environment, there’s the human factor, too. You’ll need a lot of commitment and time until your avocado trees will finally produce fruit.

Treat your avocado tree like you would your pet. Give it lots of love and devotion. Your tree with thank you for it, maybe with some fruit!

A fruit tree can turn your backyard upside down and make it a better-looking place to live in. It also comes with a few pluses. Hand-picked fruit snacks, anyone?

Here, we have everything you’ll want to know about growing fruit trees.

Benefits of Growing Fruit Trees

There are plenty of reasons why you should try to grow your own fruit tree.

For starters, trees improve air quality. Plants are natural filters and can remove harmful pollutants from the air we breathe.

Having your own fruit trees can reduce your carbon footprint because you’ll be sourcing your fruits from your own backyard.

The global supply chain, which involves many steps from harvesting to packing, to shipping fruits, takes a huge toll on the environment, so you can do your part by planting fruit trees.

Fruit-Bearing Trees for Beginners

We’d love to tell you that planting trees is as easy as eating fruit and planting the seed in it, but it’s a bit more complicated than that.

Not all trees are created equal. Some kinds, like avocado trees, are hard to get fruits out of. It’s the same with apple trees, which are also not true to type.

“True to type” trees produce the same fruits as their parents. This means that no matter how hard you try, you might not get the same fruit from your seed as the one your seed came from.

You’ll be lucky if your apple is even edible.

Most commercial growers use the grafting technique to make trees produce fruit. Grafting is an old propagation technique that works by connecting a shoot (the “scion”) to a root piece (the “stock”).

If you want to make sure you’re planting a tree that will produce fruit, don’t bother starting from seeds or pits. Start with grafted fruit plants from your nursery or online instead.

How to Get Started

Choose a Suitable Planting Site

There are two important things you have to consider when you’re choosing a place to plant your fruit tree in: soil drainage and sun exposure.

Trees that grow in flooded soil die within a few years because it doesn’t give your plant roots enough room for growth.

Choose a spot in your backyard with good soil drainage. Well-drained soil is best for fruit trees because your fruit tree can receive ample hydration and nutrients without stunting root growth.

You should also look for a place in your backyard that receives full sun exposure. Your fruit trees need sun for at least 6 hours a day.

Choosing Your Fruit Tree

Why Pollination Matters

Pollination is how trees can produce fruit. There won’t be any fruits around without fertilized plant ovaries, after all.

If this is your first shot at planting fruit trees, we suggest you choose self-pollinating trees and shrubs to start with.

Self-Pollinating Trees

With self-pollinating trees, you’re sure that your tree will grow fruits after dedicating some time to taking care of your tree.

Some self-pollinating fruit trees include apricots, peaches, and sour cherries. With these fruits, you don’t have to worry about the variety you’ll choose, because the common varieties of these fruit trees are self-pollinating.

If you want to grow pear trees, you’ll have to be more careful. Pear trees generally aren’t self-pollinating.

If you’re in California, you’re in luck: some pear varieties are self-fruitful, like the Bartlett and the Comice varieties.

If you want an easier tree to start with, you could give persimmons a shot.

Persimmons are easy to grow because they survive diverse soil conditions, they’re self-fruitful, and they can also cross-pollinate.

Cross-Pollinating Plants

If you can take on a challenge, then maybe you can try planting an apple tree.

Apple trees are challenging because they’re self-incompatible and will only grow fruit by cross-pollinating complementary varieties.

With apple trees, you can’t plant and grow just one. You’ll need at least two planted trees with similar bloom times to ensure maximum crop growth.

Bare-Root vs.Balled-and-Burlapped Tree

Besides choosing which fruit trees to get, you also have to decide whether you’ll plant fruit trees bare-root or balled-and-burlapped.

Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) saplings come with a ball of soil around their roots. Chances are if you buy a tree from a nursery, the sapling is likely B&B.

Container-grown plants are also similar to B&B saplings, except that your root ball will probably involve all the soil inside the container.

Root-ball saplings are easier to plant and are gentler on the tree root. All you have to do is to dig a hole in your backyard, place the root ball inside the hole, and backfilling that hole with your excavated soil.

Some gardeners like planting bare-root fruit saplings. Just like the name says, bare-root trees don’t have a ball of soil surrounding the roots.

A bare-root fruit tree will establish more quickly in the environment where it’s planted, so that’s one reason some gardeners prefer it. But the bare-root process could be dangerous to fragile tree roots.

Preparing Your Soil for Planting

We recommend testing your soil first before planting, so you’re sure that you’re planting in a suitable spot. As a minimum, test for soil pH and nematodes.

Soil pH should be somewhere around 6.0 to 6.5 so that your trees absorb the right nutrients.

You should probably check for nematodes, too. Nematodes are parasites that spread viruses to fruit plants and can be dangerous to your fruit tree’s health and crop capacity.

The best kind of soil for fruit tree planting is loam because it’s well-draining.

You can use compost in the planting hole so that your plant roots can grow better, faster, and healthier.

When to Plant Fruit Trees

Spring is the season of fertility for a reason. The best time to plant your tree is in early spring.

It’s important to make sure that the ground is frost and flood-free before you start planting your tree, so don’t rush to plant on the first day of spring.

The earlier you get a head-start on planting and growing your tree, the better. Saplings planted earlier establish faster. Those planted later in the spring could grow slower compared to saplings planted earlier.

Planting Day

The time has come. You prepared your soil, and you chose a glorious spot to plant your tree in your backyard.

You bought a low-maintenance, self-pollinating pear tree. You dug a spot deep enough to accommodate your pear tree.

What now?

Planting Container-Grown or B&B Fruit Trees

If you bought your sapling in containers, you have to take a few extra steps to ensure that your roots are healthy before planting them into the ground.

First, remove the plant from the container. Even if the container is “plantable,” this could choke your sapling’s root.

Next, if you see that the edges of your rootball are just a mass of exposed tangled roots, then shave off the outer inch of the ball with a sharp saw.

Place your tree in the hole after. Don’t make the mistake of planting the entire rootball in the excavation, or else you risk shortening your tree’s life expectancy.

Backfill the hole until the top of the rootball is two inches higher than the surrounding ground.

Afterward, water your tree. About five gallons of water should be enough to hydrate your tree. Larger trees need more water though, so check for the correct amount of water for your tree.

Growing Your Fruit Tree

Your tree won’t grow or produce fruits if you don’t take care of it. For the best results, here are a few tips.

Fertilize

Fertilizer will give your tree the necessary nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and magnesium. Without these nutrients, your tree will have a hard time growing and producing fruits.

You can choose either organic or chemical fertilizers. What’s more important than the type of fertilizer you use, though, is how often you apply them, and how much.

The amount of fertilizer you need depends on the nutrients in your soil, and the type of plant you’re growing.

Water

You should water your plant regularly, at least once weekly, if you live in a place with less than 1 inch of rainfall.

Prune

You should prune your tree until it reaches around three feet.

Pruning helps speed up your tree’s fruit production because it improves tree strength, encourages new shoots, and lets your tree absorb sunlight more frequently.

Prune younger trees lightly once a year.

Conclusion

These days, it’s really easy to buy all kinds of fruits from the grocery store or your local farmer’s market. You can even order fruits online!

But there’s something different about enjoying the fruit of your own labor. We really think you should give fruit tree-planting a shot.

So what exactly are columnar fruit trees?

These urban-friendly fruit trees are perfect for those with a small garden and make excellent plants for any gardener taking small steps to big garden dreams.

Columnar trees are also a delightful appeal to any home’s balcony! To learn more about how to grow them, we’ll share our tips and experiences in this article.

What are Columnar Fruit Trees?

Compared to traditional trees, columnar trees grow upward instead of outward. Most trees spread outward and have long branches; however, these fruit trees have smaller fruit-bearing branches and are smaller in size.

So why grow them?

Mainly because they require less soil and room to grow, making them perfect for any small garden or if you have a balcony garden and want to add life to a barren space, these fruit-bearing trees are gorgeous plants.

How Tall Do Columnar Trees Grow?

A columnar fruit tree can only grow as tall as 8 to 10 feet upon reaching maturity and 2 to 3 feet wide. Pretty small, right?

Standard trees grow as high as 20 feet and can grow quite wide, too. Although a columnar fruit tree only grows up to 10 feet, the fruit it bears is normal-sized. On that note, they’re delicious too!

However, a columnar fruit tree doesn’t produce as much yield as standard trees. The great thing, though, is you can expect this fruit tree to produce fruit for 20 years.

What Is an Example of a Columnar Tree?

Nowadays, you can find a variety of columnar trees, such as peach, cherry, and plum, and apple trees. However, apple trees are the only true columnar trees among all varieties.

Apple Columnar Trees

Apple columnar trees come in three varieties:

1. Golden Sentinel
2. Scarlet Sentinel
3. Northpole

Among the three, the Scarlet Sentinel produces green-yellow apples with a red blush color. As for Northpole, these apples are like Mclntosh red apples, with red and green skin.

Last but not least, Golden Sentinel apples are golden-yellow and have a sweet, crisp flavor.

Compared to a standard apple tree, each variety carries a higher price tag. However, if you order them bare-root during winter, you might be able to save more.

Are Columnar Apple Trees Self-Pollinating?

An apple fruit tree is not self-pollinating, so you’ll need at least two different types of apple trees to help pollinate and help each tree thrive.

For this reason, it might be best to get all three varieties, plant them relatively near one another, and let them do their thing!

When Is the Best Time to Plant Apple Columnar Trees?

The best season to grow these micro, fruit-bearing trees would be spring. If you live in a colder climate, spring would be the best time to plant your apple tree.

If the climate in your area isn’t as cold or the winter season isn’t as harsh, you can plant them in early spring or late fall. Furthermore, the best location suited to growing these trees is in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8.

How to Grow Your Columnar Fruit Tree

You don’t need much soil to grow these fruit-bearing trees. In fact, you can use a whiskey barrel and fill up adequate amounts of soil to grow columnar trees.

Don’t worry. It’s not hard to grow one. They don’t come as close to growing sweet potatoes or artichokes in your garden.

However, one thing to remember is to plant each tree at least two feet apart if you plan to grow them using native soil and without a container.

These micro trees also require full sun and at least two different varieties for cross-pollination. Since apples require pollen from a different type of apple tree, this is one step you must follow accordingly.

If you plan to grow them in containers, an ideal size would be at least 20 inches deep and wide. Of course, you don’t need to fill the whole container with soil. That would be a costly expense.

Instead, you can use organic matter, such as small flowers, grass clippings, straw, or even trailing vines, to fill some of the space in the container.

Maintenance & Care

To achieve the best results and grow apples with a distinctive flavor, maintenance is a vital element. Here are a few maintenance practices to remember:

1. You’ll need to water your trees regularly throughout the year while ensuring the soil is neither too dry nor soggy.
2. Applying fertilizer, preferably diluted fish emulsion, every 4 weeks is a good standard to go by.
3. Whether you use native soil or a container, top dress the surface with at least 1 to 2 inches of compost every spring to restore the soil’s nutrients and life.
4. Pruning isn’t necessary in most cases; however, it may require thinning so that the branches can support the weight of the apples.

Final Words

We hope this article was able to help you understand what columnar trees are and how you can grow one.

If you’d like to know more or want to share your experience growing one, we’d love to know about it in the comments section below!

The pineapple guava is one of the most underrated fruit trees, which is unbelievable considering how resilient it is! It has a unique taste that is incredibly yummy, both sweet and slightly tart.

If you are curious about what the pineapple guava is and want to see if you can grow it yourself, read on. This guide will tell you all you need to know!

What Is Pineapple Guava?

Pineapple guava is also referred to as Feijoa Sellowiana (Fay-joe-ah) or Acca Sellowiana.

The pineapple guava is native to South America, particularly southern Brazil, Uruguay, western Paraguay, and certain parts of Argentina.

Despite its name, it is not a real guava. It is a member of the Myrtle plant family, with feijoa being a distant cousin of the tropical guava.

It was introduced to New Zealand, Europe, and the US during the early 1900s.

The feijoa sellowiana is exceptionally adaptive, as long as temperatures do not fall lower than 15°F. It prefers subtropical climates to thrive, with cold, mild winters and moderate summers in the 80 – 90s.

This means the pineapple guava is one of the most cold-resistant types of guava that you can grow, as it can survive average temperatures even as low as 15°F. 

It requires at least 50 days of chill to get the flowering flowing. In California coastal areas, especially in San Francisco, some commercial planting is being done. It is also commonly found in landscaping.

Portland is another place that has excellent conditions for growing the pineapple guava feijoa, particularly in the south-facing position against a hardscape or building in the Pacific Northwest.

Today, this plant variety is regularly grown in different parts of the United States, Europe, Mexico, Australia, and New Zealand.

Why Should You Grow Your Own Feijoa?

Easy to Grow

They are low-maintenance, pest-resistant, drought-tolerant, and easy to train as either a shrub or tree.

It naturally has a multi-branched form. But it is easy to shape it as a single trunk or even form an espaliered tree.

With proper care, time, and plenty of patience, you can make it grow as high as 20 feet!

Delicious and Healthy

Both the fruit and the flowers are edible and delicious. The pineapple guava is also rich in vitamin C, fiber, antioxidants, and all the vital Bs your doctor tells you that you need!

The edible white sepals are thick cloud-like pillows of sweet cotton candy that will melt in your mouth.

Gorgeous Aesthetics

The pineapple guava can grow up to 12 to 15 ft. The top of the leaves is glossy and dark green. The underside of the foliage is fuzzy with a bright silver color. This is why landscape artists plant the feijoa for aesthetics.

It is full and evergreen, so you can plant them close together to create an excellent privacy screen. It can also function as an effective, edible way to break strong winds!

Birds love nesting on the pineapple guava tree or shrub. Note that its small branches can be very brittle, despite the density of the wood, so they can snap when birds stand on them.

Pineapple guava flowers are tremendous explosions of red, with delicious edible pink to white sepals surrounding the outside of the flower. It will add a gorgeous splash of color to your garden.

When the flowers come on during spring, the bush becomes a magnificent explosion of color and fireworks. It is covered in white and red on the backdrop of green leaves.

Finally, its beauty extends to its scent. The smell and fragrance of the pineapple guava are beyond description. It is a mere preview of the delicious new growth that will make your mouth water.

What Do Pineapple Guavas Taste Like?

To really get the taste of pineapple guava, you will have to try it out yourself. It would taste even better after all that time and hard work! But we will do our best to give you a good idea of what to expect.

It has a unique flavor that is very sweet while being slightly tart at the same time. Imagine drinking a shale of pineapple, banana, kiwi, and guava all at once, with a hint of piney mango or mint. That’s the closest we can get to describing it.

In a nutshell, they are incredibly delicious!

How Pineapple Guavas Grow

After the spring bloom, this plant’s fruit will develop over the summer and ripen in the fall. Typically, one feijoa will grow to the approximate size of a medium to large egg or about 1 to 4 inches with an oblong shape.

It usually takes several years for an immature pineapple guava tree to start bearing a good yield of feijoa for the first time.

However, this can vary depending on your climate, cultivar, and type of plant.

What You Will Need to Get Started

A Good Location

Choose a place that has the best growing conditions for your plant. These plants are not big fans of high winds, so choose a location that is protected from that.

We highly recommend planting your plant near a wall or fence to shelter it from the winds. This will also allow heat to reflect onto the plant and give it additional protection from the frost in areas with challenging and cold winters.

Make sure that the site receives at least half a day to a full day of sunlight, with afternoon summer shade or overall filtered sunlight to protect it from too much heat, as its fruit can get sunburned.

They are known to grow well in California, the Pacific Northwest, Texas, Florida, and more. It is also great for coastal zones, as it can deal with the salty spray and mildly saline soils.

Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold

The feijoa will be happiest in full sun, especially where the average summer temperatures are below 90°F and winter temperatures are above 15°F.

Prolonged periods below 15°F can kill your feijoa plant.Moreover, sudden fall frosts can damage its ripening fruit. Late spring frosts can also destroy the flower blossoms even before they can bear the fruit you worked so hard for.

If you experience a sudden cold snap, you can drape your tree or shrub with a bedsheet, burlap, plastic, or frost blanket to protect it.

Excessive heat can also cause stress and negatively impact its fruit production. It may result in underdeveloped feijoas or loss of its flowers.

According to expert cultivators, your location should ideally have only moderately warm summers and relatively warm winters for the best-tasting feijoa.

Even if you do not have the most ideal of growing conditions, they will still generally thrive. So make sure you do not experience long periods of those temperatures, and you should be okay.

The Right Soil

The pineapple guava prefers sandy loam, well-drained soil with a lot of organic matter. You can also grow them in clay soils, as long as they are not saturated in the wintertime. The plants can even grow in average garden soil!

We highly recommend adding good quality compost to the soil before planting. Finally, add an inch or two of mulch around the base of your tree shrub to protect its shallow roots.

PRO TIP!

The only type of soil that these plants will not tolerate is continuously soggy soil. This is why you must make sure your site is well-drained.

If you naturally have poorly-draining soil, add horticultural sand, small volcanic rock, pumice, or other aeration additives to improve drainage.

You can also add some aged compost, worm castings, and/or high-quality bagged potting soil to enrich the nutrient content of the earth.

The Best Variety of Feijoa for You

Different species of the pineapple guava plant have various characteristics. Some are self-fertile, while others need partner plants for generating a good fruit harvest.

All pineapple guava varieties are hardy and can survive extreme heat and cold, from 15 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit on average.

However, they also vary in terms of the climates and conditions they need to thrive and reach their maximum growth potential.

Choose the best variety for your climate and location if you want the best chances for good growth and yield.

Step #1: Plant Your Pineapple Guava

How Many Should You Plant?

One thing you need to take consider when planting your pineapple guava is whether you want to eat the harvest from your tree and, if so, you will need a lot of them.

This will determine the number and proximity of plants you will need.

You see, the pineapple guava plant is generally self-fruitful or self-pollinating. However, this will not give you much fruit, if any.

While there are certain grafted self-fertile varieties, like the Coolidge, Pineapple Gem, and Apollo that do not need Parker plants to grow fruit, this is not so for all types.

Cross-pollination from a partner plant will drastically increase its fruit development and yield. So, if you want a big harvest from your tree, plant at least two shrubs or trees near one another.

The closer they are to one another, the better cross-pollination will be. However, if this cannot be done, then it is sufficient that they are within the same yard or general space.

Spacing

This will significantly depend on the amount of space you have available.

If you plan on creating an orchard, it is best to space each plant 8 to 10 feet apart with at least 15 feet between the rows.

For your personal garden or home, you can plant them closer and in hedgerows, even up to just five close apart.

Can I Grow Them in a Container?

Yes, absolutely! Pineapple guava plants are slow-frown in nature. They are also quite lenient to pruning, which makes this plant very container-friendly.

Choose a proper-sized container that will let your pineapple guava grow into the size and with the vigor that you want.

You should ensure there are sufficient drainage holes and high-quality potting soil to promote your plant’s healthy growth.

However, note that we still recommend planting them on the ground to get the best results and better quality feijoa.

We know not everyone has the space or luxury of doing that, so who are we to deny you this lovely fruit?

A Note on Pests

You may be wondering why we do not have a section on how to keep pests away from your feijoa.

This is because they are pest and disease-free! Rare instances have reported scale or fruit flies being a problem, but they are so rare that you need not worry!

Step #2: Feed Them!

Pineapple guavas are ravenous plants. They are heavy feeders that require good quality compost mulch and regular additions of a balanced fertilizer to maintain production and replenish its nutrients.

Mulching will ensure that the shallow roots remain protected as well. Adding compost to the soil is recommended. The pH should be approximately 5.5 – 7.0.

We recommend adding slow-release, well-balanced fertilizer around the base of your plant at once or twice a year. Then, add a fresh layer of compost mulch, too.

Step #3: Water Them!

While pineapple guava plants are drought-tolerant, they still need to be watered regularly to create a sound root system in the soil. After the initial three years or so, they can survive dry summers without irrigation.

However, if you want to eat yummy feijoa, then deep weekly watering during flowering through fruit formation is absolutely essential.

This is because when the plant feels any stress, it will abort the fruit and diminish its yield to conserve its nutrients for survival.

We recommend keeping the soil damp and mount, but not soggy. Moderate watering is advisable. Avoid overwatering, especially during the winter months, as overly wet soil can lead to rotten roots and other related diseases.

An under-watered plant will result in a feijoa that is not as juicy as you may want, and it can fall from the plant before becoming fully developed.

Step #4: Pollination

As we have stated in the earlier section, your pineapple guava can either self-pollinate or use a partner plant and pollinators. Birds and bees mainly pollinate the pineapple guava.

However, you can also help your plant through hand-pollination. To do this, get a brush, such as a paintbrush or makeup brush, and brush the flowers of your pineapple guava to collect pollen.

Then, go to the other pineapple guava shrub or tree and brush those flowers to transfer the pollen you collected. Keep doing this back and forth.

Step #5: Pruning (Optional)

Pruning is not necessary when growing your pineapple guava. However, in commercial production, the plant is pruned into a single leader with an inverted umbrella shape and an open center.

You do not need to do it this way. Let light and air penetrate the canopy to help ripen the fruit for greater chances of success.

Some prefer to hedge their plants, which will still give you a moderate amount of yield.

Be careful not to prune too much in the summer so you can avoid fruit that will get sunburned.

Step #6: Harvest Time!

You have spent hours in your garden and years waiting to taste that precious fruit finally. Your labor of love has yet paid off. Now how do you harvest the fruits?

Depending on where you live, the season, climate, etc., your fruit will ripen at different times and in stages over a few weeks or up to a month. So, the best way to get your fruits is not to pick them.

Put a net, tarp, sack, or any cloth down and shake the tree until you get those ripe fruits to fall on their own.

However, if you really cannot wait for this, then you can pick them by touch. A mature fruit should be soft to the touch. In any event, you can let your fruit fully ripen on the counter after you have picked it.

What to Do After You Have Harvested Them

A freshly plucked feijoa fruit can only survive for a few days. That is good news for you if you are excited to eat your fruit!

If you have an overabundance of fruits, you can turn it into a shake, tap, fruit preserve, juice, or smoothie.

You can even bake with it or make a freeze-dried version. Honestly, the sky is the limit with this delicious fruit.

However, it is still best enjoyed fresh and on its own. So you can also store your fruit in the refrigerator, though take note that its quality can rapidly decrease within a matter of weeks.

How to Eat Your Feijoa Fruit

We recommend cutting one end off just deep enough to reveal the\clear jelly-like center. Then, use a spoon to scoop out the pulp inside. In doing this, you should aim to run the spoon as close to the skin as possible.

The skin is often very tart and tannic, sometimes with stone-like granules that need to be cooked to dissolve.

The extracted pulp is like a sweet and slightly tart dessert, but the skin can be eaten or used, too. In fact, some people use the skin to make jams and jellies. Mmmm, yummy!

There are some thin-skinned varieties of this self-fertile plant that you can eat whole.

Final Words

The feijoa sellowiana is a plant that will keep on giving. It will add a burst of color and design to your garden, give off a mouth-watering sweet scent, and can double as a privacy screen for you.

Moreover, it requires almost nothing but time to grow, as long as you have the right conditions for it to thrive.

And after all that patience and time, you can partake of its sweet, juicy harvest. You can even enjoy it year-round by preserving it in various dishes and preserves.

Whether you are looking for a new design addition or edible plant to your garden, the feijoa has something for you.

Grafting fruit trees date back as early as 1,000 B.C. In fact, history reveals that the Romans, Chinese, and Greeks understood grafting as a means to preserve the superior traits of a plant or tree.

Fast forward to today, and we have various techniques developed used for grafting fruit trees, which we’ll discuss throughout this article.

More importantly, we’ll share with you a step-by-step guide on how to graft trees. But first, let’s define tree grafting and its significance in a modern world.

What Is Tree Grafting?

Grafting is the process of joining together the parts of 2 plants to form a new tree and function as a single plant.

One plant serves the role of providing the root system, also known as the rootstock.

The other plant provides the upper section with desirable traits or characteristics (flowers or fruit), which is also known as the scion.

The way it works is by attaching the scion to the root stock to form a new tree. Tree grafting can also be referred to as tree surgery; however, don’t let the term “surgery” scare you.

Grafting is a fairly straightforward process, and you simply need the essential tools to help you produce the quality you desire.

The Benefits of Grafting Fruit Trees

Let’s say you plant an apple tree that produces excellent, luscious-tasting apples. You know that it won’t be long before that apple tree runs out of apples to give.

So what do you do? You might buy more seeds to grow more apple trees and re-create that superior quality.

However, there’s no guarantee you’ll get the same quality. Furthermore, you’ll have to wait a considerable amount of time before your new apple trees start to produce fruit again.

This is where grafted trees come in. Grafting helps you preserve that superior quality by creating exact genetic duplicates of the plant. These are just some of the benefits grafting has to offer.

This doesn’t just apply to apple trees. If you want to create exact replicas of a superior cherry or pecan tree, you can do so with grafting!

Finally, grafted trees will bloom much faster than propagating through seeds or cuttings.

Grafted Trees: How to Graft Fruit Trees Step-by-Step

Now that we understand the significance of grafting, let’s dive into how to graft your favorite, superior tree.

Materials You’ll Need

Before we get started, you’ll need the right tools, such as:

1. Grafting knife or utility knife
2. Grafting tape
3. Budding knife
4. Pruning shears
5. Bud stick or dormant scion
6. Fine tooth saw
7. Light hammer

Step 1: Choose Your Rootstock

The rootstock is where you’ll attach your growth bud to so choosing the appropriate rootstock matters too.

Nowadays, you can find a ton of rootstock options that come with their own unique attributes, such as disease or insect resistance and winter hardiness.

Some rootstocks worth mentioning include:

M.26 Rootstock

M.26 is an excellent option for home gardens and does reasonably well in well-drained soils. You can also expect to see some fruit as early as one year.

Additionally, it also has a few rootsuckers, although they are susceptible to fire blight.

If you plan to use M.26 as your rootstock, make sure you plant the graft union by an inch above the ground to expose less of the rootstock and at least 8 inches apart from each other.

Bud 9 Rootstock

If you want a full dwarf tree, bud 9 is your go-to option. It’s precocious and grows up to 7 or 8 feet tall. Considering how hardy it is, it shouldn’t be difficult to grow.

If you plan to plant your apple tree using bud 9 rootstock, make sure to set at least 7 inches of space apart.

M.7 Rootstock

At some point, M7 was a dominant rootstock used by many; however, the root suckers it produces demands a considerable amount of maintenance. Fortunately, it’s resistant to collar rot, which is a soil-borne disease of apples.

M.7 rootstocks can grow as tall as 15 feet, which is the average size of a semi-dwarf tree. Although the yield on M.7 rootstock is abundant and productive, it can take 4 to 5 years before it starts to bear fruits.

Step 2: Choose the Fruit Trees You Want to Graft

This step is the easiest and is a matter of personal preference. If you want to pick a pecan tree and replicate the superior quality it produces, that’s the right tree for you to graft.

If you prefer a plum tree, that’s fine too. Again, it’s a matter of personal preference, so choose any tree you want to graft and proceed to step 3.

Step 3: Choose the Right Time to Graft

The best time to graft trees is during spring, although this may vary depending on the type of tree you want to graft.

The period between late winter and early summer is a good period for you to collect your rootstock and scion.

Make sure to collect scion with 3 or 4 buds in them. 1/4 to 3/8 inches in diameter is an adequate measurement to go by when harvesting your scion.

Step 4: Graft Your Fruit Tree

You can use many techniques to graft trees, such as budding, whip and tongue grafting, bark grafting, and cleft grafting.

Each technique suits a specific condition. Budding, for example, is especially suited for beginners, while cleft grafting is more ideal to use for older trees.

Let’s go over the steps required for each technique one by one.

Budding

Unlike most grafting techniques, budding or bud grafting is done during late summer. During this period, you can use well-grown buds, and the bark also slips in easily.

Among all techniques, budding is the easiest to learn and best suited to beginners. Here’s how to bud graft:

Step 1: Cut bud sticks from the shoots of your current year’s growth. Mature, healthy buds will have a slightly brown color.

Step 2: Cut the leaves off the bud sticks to minimize any water loss. Make sure to leave at least 1/2 inch of the leafstalk for you to grip and handle.

Step 3: Grab your grafting knife. 1/2 inch underneath the bud and at a 45-degree angle, make a small cut. When cutting, make sure to pull the knife upwards so that you cut into the outer bark and cambium layer without cutting too deep and destroying the heartwood.

Step 4: Make another cut 1/2 inch above the bud. Let the length of your blade guide you downwards until it meets the first cut you made in Step 3.

Step 5: Make a similar or matching cut on your rootstock at the same 45-degree angle. You can use the piece you cut in Steps 3 and 4 to guide you into making a similar cut.

Step 6: Attach the first cut you made in steps 3 and 4 to the cut you made in step 5. The graft union between your bud and the rootstock provides an active layer of growth that will heal the graft once joined.

Step 7: Use grafting tape to attach the bud to the rootstock properly. Ensure you wrap it precisely that the bud attaches firmly to the rootstock cambium layer.

Step 8: Label your graft to make it easier for you to remember the species you grafted or in case you forget the type of bud you grafted onto it.

Step 9: It should take a few weeks until your graft heals. By this time, you can leave the tape on right before spring.

Step 10: Your bud will start to grow the following year. This is when you can cut the rootstock above the graft.

Here’s a video showing how to perform bud grafting as well.

Whip and Tongue Grafting

Whip and tongue grafting is a useful technique to use for smaller trees and is usually done in the spring.

One thing to note about this grafting technique is that when joining the pieces together, the wood must be of equal or similar diameter (about 1/2 inch).

You will also need masking tape along with your grafting tape for this technique to work.

If you have any apple or pear trees growing in your home orchard, you can add multiple varieties through whip and tongue grafting.

Here’s how it’s done:

Step 1: Collect your scion wood and trim any of the leaves to minimize water loss.

Step 2: Grab your rootstock and make your first cut (at least 1.25 to 1.5 inch) above the top root.

Step 3: Make a matching cut on your scion.

Step 4: Grab your rootstock, and starting from about 1/3 inch down from the cut surface of your rootstock, make a cut into the center of your rootstock. Afterward, make a similar cut on your scion as well.

Step 5: Join your scion and rootstock together. Make sure both are firmly attached for a secure fit.

Step 6: Grab your tape, and starting below your newly formed graft union, wrap the tape around the union for an effective seal.

Step 7: Tie the tape together with a knot to complete the sealing process.

Step 8: When planting your newly formed plant, the graft union should be at least 2 inches above the ground to prevent the scion from rotting.

Here’s a video on how to perform this technique:

If you want to learn more about grafting techniques, you can find more here.

You’ll be able to find techniques such as bark grafting, cleft grafting, and other techniques that may prove useful in the future.

Step 5: Protect Your Grafted Tree

During the first few years, protecting your grafted tree is a crucial step. Take into account any wildlife or pests that may place stress on your graft. Furthermore, strong winds can loosen the union and cause damage to your graft.

In that case, here are a few tips we recommend the following:

1. Use a protective tree tube.
2. Place a large or thick stake beside your grafts and loosely tie the stake to your graft to keep it in place and protect it from windy conditions.
3. If you notice a lot of wildlife in your area, you can opt for a wire cage similar to what you would use to protect your vegetables in a garden.
4. Water your graft regularly. Also, don’t forget to add fertilizer as needed to ensure the success of your graft’s growth.

Step 6: Be Patient

Grafting trees is a long-term process, meaning you shouldn’t expect to see fruit even after one year. A grafted dwarf tree, for example, will start to bear fruit after 5 or 7 years.

While the wait may be long, it’s also well worth the wait.

Creating exact replicas of superior plants you want to keep in your home orchard, garden, or space is one method that comes with amazing benefits but also requires patience on your end.

Until then, you can graft more trees or even attend a grafting workshop to learn more about how to properly care for your grafts and other methods you can use along the way.

You can start watching grafting workshop videos on Youtube, or you can subscribe to paid plans online. Alternatively, there are a few more you can stream for free on Ncbionetwork.org.

Final Words

We hope this article was able to help you understand what grafting is and how to graft trees step-by-step.

We’d also love to hear more about your grafting experiences! Feel free to share them with us below.